Zanskar valley, in the Ladakh district of Jammu and Kashmir, is probably the most isolated valley in India and Phuktal is amongst the most remote places in Zanskar.
A few hours of drive from Padum, the biggest town in Zanskar, brought us to the “end of the road”. After this, a compulsory walk of several hours (5 for the locals, we took a little less than 8 hours) through high mountain passes of the Greater Himalayas lead to the Phuktal monastery.
The Phuktal monastery is the epitome of monks living high up in the mountains, detached from the rest of the world.
All of this made the trek to the Phuktal monastery not just offbeat but also an exciting adventure.
The start of the trek to Phuktal monastery
On the left side, villages of Cha and Anmu are the only sign of civilisation. They are spotted from afar by the lush green cultivation around them, a stark contrast to an otherwise golden barren landscape.
Another camping option enroute Phuktal is a village called Purne, on the opposite side of the river Lungnak. A wooden bridge (spot it in the picture!) takes you over. To reach Phuktal monastery via Purne, you need to cross three such bridges, but the route is wider and not so high up, hence a lot safer than via Cha.
Our night halt on the way to Phuktal monastery (also called Phugtal) was in a village named Cha.
Anmu is the first village on the way to Cha just after the end of the motor-able road.
Soon after we started our walk, came a point where we couldn’t figure a way ahead. We had to literally walk down the cliff which fell into a gorge deep down.
While we were just staring scarily at this difficult patch, contemplating a safe way to cross, Tenzing from the village Anmu came by. Without any hesitation she crossed through, as easily as one would climb down the stairs in their house.
Realising our predicament she came up again, and helped us all! We couldn’t have thanked her enough!
Later, while crossing through Anmu, her family invited us over for tea. It was an idyllic setting, a house on a hill, with a kitchen garden in front, small cozy cheerful rooms and loads of kids’ laughter! We had some tea, home-made bread and the most amazing yogurt.
Humbled by their hospitality and hearts filled with gratitude, we carried on.
The night halt on the trek to Phuktal monastery
The house where we spent the night at Cha is seen here at the back.
Cha is midway between the end of the motor-able road and the Phuktal monastery.It’s a tiny village, without any shop or school.
It does have a health centre and a satellite phone and is the headquarters of the Lungnak Block, as the area is called.Trekkers sometimes halt in Cha on the way to the Phuktal monastery.
Longer treks to Manali via Shingo-la also pass through Cha.
A few houses have realised the opportunity and offer their house as home stays for trekkers.
Journey to Phuktal monastery begins.
This is what we had to cross to reach the Phuktal monastery. It was a straight path without much chance of getting lost, except within our own selves.
Walking through these wind battered rocks, the forces of nature surrounded us everywhere.
Their presence was powerful, enigmatic and left us in awe. Perhaps, this is what a religious experience is all about!
Rocks carved with ancient scriptures in Tibetan script are seen everywhere.
These petroglyphs are pieces of art! They are usually just casually strewn around monasteries. We found many of these around Phuktal.They could be centuries old, or they could be made recently by a monk chiseling away in a monastery.
The Phuktal monastery
This is what we were after, the most important and the most remote monastery in the entire Zanskar valley. Hidden in a cave on a hill side!
After the long, breath taking (as well as breathless making) walk up at around 4200 meters in the Phuktal valley, the sight of the Phuktal monastery was, more than anything – relieving!
The three stupas mark the boundary of any village in Zanskar.There is a small guest house just before these stupas, where visitors can halt for the night. As we had halted in Cha, we didn’t stay here.
We continued our walk through the winding steps (seen in the far corner in the picture) that start soon after these stupas.
Young monks at Phuktal monastery
Should we call them monks or kids or kid monks?
It was break time for these youngsters. Their energy was un-missable.Take their maroon robes away, dress them up in clothes for “young adults” and they could pass off as school children in a playground.
Except that, they WERE in their maroon robes, attended the monk school in the monastery, studied ancient scriptures and would go on to live their lives devoid of all worldly possessions!
Lunch time at Phuktal monastery
Yeah, that’s the view at the meal times. It won’t cost you a dime. Just a lifetime of being a monk! However, just for this day, we got to savour it!
By the time we reached the Phuktal monastery the monks had gathered for lunch . We were welcome to join them.
We went and sat next to them. One of the young monks gave us a bowl and served us the same food that the monks were having for lunch. After some chanting, the lunch began.
The plastic spoons are of course ours!
It was simple, mostly boiled, healthy food. Some food was shared with the crows and other birds that joined in. The meal was followed by tea.After this, the monks retired for their afternoon chores.
We returned via Purne.
We had to change mountains thrice, crossing three rickety wooden bridges over the river.
But the path was broader – it’s used by the horses as well. It was also at a much lower elevation.
In the picture, the mountains on the left are through the village Cha. The ones on the right are through the village Purne. Both these routes lead to the Phuktal monastery.
The locals had recommended the route on the left, through Cha. For them, it was a faster, shorter route, around a hour and a half away.
“For them” being the operative word here – it took us a good four hours to reach there. It was treacherously high up, a bit too narrow, and (I am not exaggerating here), not something your heart could take again!
The people of Zanskar, are people of the hills after all! The hills are their homes. They belong to the hills and the hills belong to them. You, will, alas, always be a foreigner here!
You would also like to read other stories of our travels in Zanskar
81 thoughts on “Trek to Phuktal Monastery in Zanskar, India.”
Thank you for sharing this ultimate information about this country.
It looks like very useful information. So, if you want more useful information then you reach with Greece
I have been to ladakh before, while reading this article your lines brought the amazing visuals back to my mind,Loved the way you described about zanskar and the social life
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Hi, this will be our first time in the zanskar Valley. we are planning the trek to phutkal in August. Can you please give some latest info on routes and time it takes from padum? Also, how’s the terrain? Does it have too many steep climbs on the way or more or less flat? Any help would be greatly appreciate..
From Padum to Dolma(4kms ahead of Anmu) it takes you 3-4 hrs on bike/four wheeler. From Dolma to Cha 1-2 hrs mix of gradual, steep ascend and descend. From Cha to Phuktal gompa it takes 2-4 hrs. First half hour is gradual ascend and for half hour almost flat surface from there onward it is a steep descend till the gompa this part is very tough with very narrow track.
Very nicely written and very informative article.
I have question
After Padum till where we can take our bikes before trekking? Can we park our bikes there safely? Is there any stay option over there to where we can ride previous day and start the trek next day early morning?
Hey Deepinder, the road from Padum now almost extends up to Cha. This means the walk that we did on the first day is now eliminated. You’ll have to park your bikes either in Char or wherever the road ends. You’ll have homestay options in Cha. You can ask your homestay family to keep a watch on your bikes, which the happily will. Cha/Purne-Phuktal-Cha/Purne is possible is one day. So you can leave from Padum and stay overnight at Cha. And leave for Phuktal monastery the next morning.
Wow great thanks for the information
Completed trek in two days Padum-Anmu-Dolma by bike from Dolma till Phuktal monastery trek stayed at monastery guest house returned back next day.
That’s amazing! How was the experience of staying at the monastery?
Stay at Guest house was awesome
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Can we visit Phuktal Monastery in the month of May?
Yes, you can. The Penzi la, the pass that you need to cross on your way to the Zanskar valley has opened for traffic. So travelling to the Phuktal monastery is now possible.
Hi Sandeepa,
Nice blog since i plan there next summer
1. How do you take the transport to Anmu, is there any public transport ? or you need hire taxi from Padum. Do you remember how much is it ?
2. Regarding going back to Padum, how do you get transport from Anmu back to Padum, i believe there is no taxi stand in Anmu or you need to arrange with taxi driver to pick you up after several days ?
3. If i want to hire guide (so i can communicate with local people), how much roughly guide rate per day ?
Hello Rio, you will need to hire a cab from Padum to take you to the start of the trek to Phuktal. There could already be a cab from Anmu or nearby villages brought to Padum by the locals. You can join in that cab. Inform your homestay/guest house owner of your plans and they will keep an eye on a suitable cab. You will have to tell him to come to pick you up as well.
You can arrange for a guide in Padum itself. There is no need to pre-book a guide.
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I love reading the comments and your answers to the questions. Now, I see more and more possibilities. I like the idea of shorter treks and staying longer in single places. Way to go ! Thanks again.
Hey David, while there are epic treks from/via Zanskar (like the ones you mention in your previous comments), there are many shorter o as as well. Just base yourself in one place and do many iif these smaller ones to explore the entire region.
I really like that suggestion. For myself, it’s probably the best recommendation given that I’ll be travelling alone. You mentioned a couple that stayed at Lamayuru for a month and they did yoga and went for short hikes. That way, we get to know people and we get to know the place which is excellent. I’ve read and read, looked at maps, etc..So, I’ll have an abstract idea of the area. There’s so much to see, just in the Indus Valley, etc…I’ve always been attracted to Lamayuru but your blog revealed more reasons to keep it high on the list.
I’ve had the impression that it is possible to stay at the monasteries. Are people welcome there, perhaps to join in with the activities somewhat ? I suppose it’s a matter of eating what is there and so on which is fair enough.
Another idea I had was to stay at the Ladakh Center for Ecological Development. They are doing interesting things and I could share some things with them.
I’m excited that you replied to me. Thanks.
Oh, another question…your English is excellent but, surely, you must speak several other languages. How does the language situation work out ? I also speak French but that is, admittedly, of little use.
have a great day. Thanks for writing your blog.
Thanks for publishing this. I have been looking at Phuktal for years and I want to go there. Your mention of places to stay is very helpful. My dream would be to trek from Lamayuru to Padum to Phuktal to Darcha. Then, I’d hitch a ride to manali and rest for a while.
Hello.
Very limited resources about Phutgal trek online and this one is an Excellent blog I must say. Am planning this July via darcha. Is it doable in 6 days with exit via Kargil. How is the weather gonna be in July, and can u suggest me with probable itinerary or where to break the days while trekking from darcha? I’ll be a solo trekker. Thanks Keep travelling.
Yu guys ROCK!! Thank you for this. would you recommend going here late November?
Thanks, Natalia. Phuktal will most likely be out of reach by late November – by that I mean there would be snow around!
Hi Sandeepa and Chetan,
I was travelling in Kashmir this last week and was happy to see the exact same write up and photos from your blog in the airports magazine in the Srinagar airport!! Congratulations!! http://www.airports-india.com/emagazine/index.html
beautiful blog bro. I wish i could visit this monastery someday. namaste 🙂
Thank you! Wish you all the best.
Beautiful post. Was wondering if you had to cross a river in your trek to the monastery. One of the photos looks like a narrow river.
Hey Sonal, there were several river crossings when we returned via the Purne side. Have a look at this picture. It was one of the smaller bridges, just outside the monastery to crossover to the Purne side.
http://photos.sandeepachetan.com/Story-photos/i-wFrnfsn/A
Dear Sandeepa Chetan,
Myself and my partner want to trek to the Phutal Gompa Monestary. We are seriously battling planning the trip. We land in Delhi on 27 December and leave on 4 jan 2017. Could we rent bikes from manali and travel to zanksar? I would really appreciate your help and insight on planning this trip. if you could make any recommendations of local guides?
Hi Sandeep and Chetan,
I discovered your blog as I was looking for information about hiking options around Phuktal. Congratulations, it’s really interestting and photos are amazing!
I am going to Zanskar at the end of the month, I am also planning to walk to Phuktal via Cha (walking along the north side of the river), and maybe coming back via Purne (south side). I would like to spend 2 or 3 extra days exploring around Phuktal, but I am not sure what to do… There is a way to walk back to Stongde via Stongde La, but I am afraid it will be too tough for me. I was thinking of walking to the village of Shade and then back to Phuktal.
See map: http://www.ju-lehadventure.com/photos/maps/trek_map_zanskar_stongde_phuktal.png
Have you heard about this Shade village? Do you think it could be a nice option? Do you have other suggestions to extend my trip in Phuktal area?
Thanks in advance for your help!
Claire
Hey Claire, love your plans of staying back in Phuktal and exploring more around there. We spent a few hours there, mostly in the monastery itself. Sorry, don’t have any information about Shade village or Stongde la. But hope you are able to make it there, and do share your expereicnes with us! All the best. Happy travels!
Thanks for your reply! Not easy to find information on the internet. I think I will see directly when I am there…
Hmm, yeah. Asked another friend who has been to Phuktal, he also said he just vaguely knows of these routes. The locals will be in the best position to give you the exact information. Also, these places – because of their geography and harsh weather change drastically year to year. And not much gets written about what the current situation is. It won’t be too difficult to plan routes at the last minute. We had also planned the trek to Phuktal monastery just the day before we left.
Dear Claire,
We plan to go to village Shade this year, Did you make it to Shade in 2016? Would be interested to hear more on that.
Thanks Sandeep for sharing this experience.
Thank you for all information! We are going to spend a month in Ladah this Sept. You your tips are very much appreciated! Karolina and Michal (naszymioczami.pl)
Hello Karolina, happy to know that our story of trekking to the Phuktal monastery was useful. Have a great trip!
Hi,
I’m planning to go to Ladakh and Zanskar in 2017 , if the road and came to Amnu , you can go there until Phugtal in one day ? , Overnight stay in the monastery and back the other day to Amnu or at least one more day is needed if the return is part of Phugtal at noon ? Thank you
Start early from Anmu, go all the way to Phuktal and come back to Purne for the night halt, is what we would recommend. Walk from Purne back to Anmu the next day.
Hi! I’m plan to go solo with your trek in next year March, will it be too cold?
Many roads in Kashmir and Ladakh are not open in March. June onwards will be better time.
Sir, we are planning for phuktal carrying our tents and sleeping bags. The only problem we are going to face is of food . I am bit worried about it. We are even planning for camping on river side if possible (engineering students).
Hello Rishi, great to know about your plans for doing the trek to Phuktal monastery. There are villages along the way to Phuktal, we stayed at one in Cha. Purne, on the other side of the river bank also has a lot of camping facilities. So if you plan to trek from the “end of the road” you lunch and dinner can be arranged at the villages. For longer treks, people carry food from Padum, mainly eggs and the local food, sattu.
Wow! Thankyou for your help. Sir , can you advise some other trek from padum. If we got some spare time we would definitely opt for those
I’m 100 km from Manali on our way to keh.
I wolud like to know if the road to Phugtal Gompa is constructed from Reru and after? [I know that the road exists till Reru-Muney Monastery from Padum]
Last year the road was done up to the village Anmu. This year could be a little further ahead.
Hi Sandeepa, Chetan,
We are 5 people planning to trek to Phuktal along the same route on 5th July. On inquiring with our Padum stay, we got to know that few of the bridges after Padum are broken. He was not able to explain which of the bridges.
Wanted to know whether we have to cross any bridges during the drive from Padum to Anmu and during the trek from Anmu to Phuktal. Would it be a major problem if any of the bridges are broken?
Regards,
Nithin
Hello Nithin, there are several bridges that you cross from Phuktal to Anmu. From Anmu to Phultal, if you stay on the same side, you do not cross any bridge. If you cross over to Purne, then you again criss 3 other bridges. Only the locals will be able to tell you about the problems the broken bridges can cause, as we can not guess the extent of the damage. But yes, if the bridge is broken, there isn’t another way to get there (except trekking the entire way from Padum!)
Hi,
Great blog.
I have a couple of questions, Can the monastery be visited by getting down somewhere in between the Manali – Leh highway or the trek can be started from padam only? I guess it can also be done from Jispa but I am unaware of the trek condition.
And is it viable to do the trek as a solo-traveller ?
Thanks for your help in advance.
Regards
Geet
Hello Geet, the main route to Phuktal via the village Purne goes further ahead via Shingo la towards the Len Manali highway. Googling for Shingo la trek should come up with details. We didn’t do this, but this one is a multi day trek, preferable to do it with some companions and someone with experience on these mountains. If you choose to start from Padum, the road would have now gone ahead of the village Anmu. From here you can getvto Phukatal monastery solo, if that is how you prefer your treks.
I am just a retired Dutchman living in Spain. I like your travel story’s and nice photography!!!!
Hey! Thanks for such a viable information. I’m planning a trek to Phuktal myself, but I wanted to know how is the climate there? I mean Pressure and Oxygen wise? Whether a person with hypertension may get uncomfortable? Since you’ve been there, I can have a realistic information. Please do reply.
Hello Yogesh, Phuktal is one of the easier treks in the Zanskar regions especially now with the road being made. Last year the road was done upto Anmu, this year it will be even further ahead. As you must have read in our story, the trek to Phuktal monastery can be easily done without a guide. Crossing over the bridge at Cha to the right side and proceeding through Purne is the easiest route. Having said that, it must be noted that the entire Zanskar valley is a high altitude region. En route Phuktal, you will cross patches which are over 4000 meters in altitude, more so if you go through the Cha (left) side. This does slow you down. A short ascent feels a lot more than the mountains at lower altitudes. Altitude acclimatisation is a must.
Let us know if you need any more information. Wish you a great trip to Zanskar and the Phuktal monastery.
thanks for the artical it really elped me a lot.
sir do u have contact number of any guide from the village padum.
i want to do this trek, n want to plan the days n buget for this trek.
Thanks. Myself visited Phuktal Gompha in the year 1984. A memorable trekking route.
Wow! That is a while back! Were things any different back then? Would love to know your experience of the Phuktal trek. Thanks for visiting our site and for your comment!
lovely pictures!
Prakash: Thank you for the updates about the road to Phuktal. Rajiv: The trek to Phuktal, Padum to Padum takes 5 days. We however trekked from the end of the road (which as Prakash has updated is now up to Anmu. Most maps show the “end of the road” at Reru, which is much earlier).
Day 1: Left Padum at around 12 noon. Started the walk from a point just before Anmu. By evening reached Cha. Stayed at a homestay in Cha.
Day 2: Cha to Phuktal via the left side (same mountain as Cha). Started early from Cha, reached Phuktal by noon. Returned via the right side. This is where Purne is. Camping facilties are available at Purne. Night stay at Cha.
Day 3: Walk to the end of road. Drive back to Padum. Reache Padum by late afternoon.
If you follow this plan, you wont need any mules or porters. We didnt use any guide either. However, if you do need to consult a guide, there are trekking groups offices in the Padum market. They can guide you here. You can use the remaining days to explore the rest of Zanskar.
Sorry about the name typo 🙂
Hi Sandeep,
Can you please help in breaking the day wise trek with walking distance.
Considering I have 6 days from Padum to Padum. I plan to do it slow.
Do you have any contact at Padum who can arrange mules or porters?
hi rajeev,
i’ve just retrun frm phuktal gompa on 16th aug 14.
no need to hire porters frm padum.
road constructed upto anmo (50kms) frm padum towards phuktal. takes 3hrs.
frm anmo village cha is 5km and frm there phuktal is 5km more. anmo, cha has homestay. pony avlbl at both anmo n cha.
frm phuktal to purne is 5km and purne to anmo is 8km.
Hi Prakash,
I am planning to go to Phugtal from delhi by road. Please tell me the days required for the whole trip.
I also wanted to cover Leh/Ladhak along with Phugtal trek. is it possible in 10-12 days.
hiya
I really like the detail in the awesome travel photos, would you mind me asking which camera you’ve been using please? I know it’s skills that get these kind of pics and light but it would be helpful as I’m looking for something similar for pics in UK.
Ekta
ektaavani@gmail.com
Hello Ekta, thank you! The camera used is Canon 5D.
hello,
i’ll be in ladakh in august. a few questions : how long is the trek to phuktal ? wht’s the cost ?
best regards. franck
Hi Sandeep ,
Firstly great pictures and write up about this place.I am totally inspired to do a trek to this place but may I ask a few questions ?
1.I am going from Bangalore and have booked my flight tickets in the mid of July.Are you able to able to provide me a travel itenary from Delhi to Phuktal and back to Delhi ?
2.How physically fit should one be to do this trek ? Is it s steep mountain trek ?
3.Can this trek be done in ten days as my flight tickets are booked for 18/06 Blore to Delhi and 28/06 fro to Blore,the place I wanna visit is this monastery and nothing else.
Any information will be of great help and any one who wants to do a trek between 18-28th please feel free to contact me at 7760814991.
Regards,
Varun.
Hi,
Great post, photos look amazing! I’m planning a trip to the monastery in July this year. We’ll be staying at the guesthouse at the monastery. Just wondering if there is power here? I know you didn’t overnight there but thought you may have noticed?
Thanks 🙂
Hello Jackie, wish you an awesome trip to Zanskar and Phuktal monastery. The village we had stayed at, Cha, is teh headquarters of the Lungnak valley. It didn’t have power supply. The villagers used solar power extensively. I would believe in the guest house of the Phuktal monastery as well, they would have solar power.
Loved the pictures and post followed all through the end, Great Work
Thank you so much, Rohit! Phuktal was an amazing experience for us. I guess that’s reflected in the photo and the story! Glad you enjoyed it. There are more stories from Zanskar and the surroundings, do have a look. And let us know what you think!
really insightful, thanks!
Whether it can be done without porters and in first week of june ?
Hello Sainath, you can do this without porters especially is you plan to drive till the end of the road.From the end of the road to Phuktal, there are villages where you can stay overnight. All you ll need to carry is a day bag. I asked around, about conditions in June. From what I understand, as long as Penzi la is open, Phuktal should be accessible. You can also find out the exact information by writing to info@phuktalmonastery.com
Wish you a great trip!
Amazing description! we are planning on going beginning of july from new delhi, during the monsoon, do you know if it is okay?
We did the Phuktal trek towards the end of July, so it is around the same time. Zanskar doesn’t get much rain, so the monsoon shouldn’t really be a matter of concern. All the passes should also be open by July. Good luck on your trip to Zanskar!
wonderful, will do it somtime soon, cheers
Thank you rkbharat! Visit to the Phuktal monastery is a great experience, a must do in Zanskar if you are looking for a short trek but an offbeat experience. Do get in touch if you need any information when you do plan your trip. Keep up with your awesome travels!
wonderful description bro.For a while I thought I was a part of ur trip ,N awesome pics.
just wanna know is it possible to travel with kidz 12 and 16
Hello Sanjay, thank you! Glad you enjoyed the story and it makes us very happy to know you are considering a trip to Phuktal. According to us, for kids 12 and 16, this trip should be very much possible. Maybe you can carry trekking sticks to make the trek easy. Do bear in mind though, that you have to be open to staying with the locals in really remote locations.
Hey sandeep!
Loved reading about your journey:) has inspired me to take my own.
could you throw light on few of my questions .
What was the rough expenditure from leh to phuktal?
Can the route be treked with out a guide?
And will one be allowed to stay in phuktal monastery?
Thanks
Glad to know you are inspired to trek to Phuktal! You can easily trek without a guide, especially if you drive upto the “end of the road”. Not sure if you can stay within the Phuktal monastery itself. But there is a guest house just next to the monastery.