Music, dance, colour, masks and above all, victory of the good over evil – the monastery festival has it all.
Sani festival is the biggest events in Zanskar.
People from all around Zanskar – Padum, Karsha, even as far as Phuktal come to Sani for this monastery festival.
Monastery festivals are a photographer’s delight. We saw many photographers from countries like Japan and the United States, besides a large number of Europeans.
Ironically, we were the only non-local Indians at this monastery festival!
For the two days of the festival, every household in this Zanskar village was full of guests. We were staying in a typical Zanskar homestay with a local family of Sani village. They had over for dinner, a lot of their relatives from other villages of Zanskar. Us and a few other tourists staying there got to experience the wonderful hospitality of the people of Zanskar.
Women hold the Katha at the monastery festival.
Experiencing a monastery festival is not only about the songs and dances that follow. It is, in a way, a melting pot of the present day culture of Zanskar. An ideal place to observe the nuances of the daily life of the people of Zanskar, their social interactions as well as the changes that time has brought about.
All hail the Khandoma!
This Lama is believed to take reincarnation. This makes her a very respected personality.
Music is in the air!
The monastery festival resonates with the beats and rhythms of several musical instruments.
Music from the traditional instruments like Dhamal, Yelling and Nga sets the tone for the events that follow.
The dances of the monastery festival
Known as Bapa, it is a celebratory dance, performed after killing the enemy. These masked dances are the most awaited event of any monastery festival.
The lamas wear masks symbolising Gods as well as demons and perform these dances. The dances are actually prayers in a trance-like motion.
A monastery festival really is an explosion of dance and colours.
Masks of Gods and demons at monastery festival
Notice the third eye on the forehead here, reminiscent of the third eye of Shiva according to Hindu mythology.
The parallels between the Padmasambhava sect of Buddhism followed in the Zanskar valley and Hinduism are un-missable.
With masks like these, the demons sure do look scary!
The bridal dance at the monastery festival
All the newlywed brides of this Zanskar village, arrive all dressed up in the whole bridal finery.
The bridal dress is rather elaborate, turquoise being the dominant colour. The head-gear studded with turquoise stones is called Perakh. Similar gear covering the ears is known as Skorshey. A bright scarf on the back with golden designs in called Yogar or Bok.
Wearing all of this, weighing several kilos more than their own weight, the brides perform a ceremonial dance. The local Zanskar folks then greet them with Kathas, the white scarf, congratulating them and wishing them well.
Top tips for attending a monastery festival in the Zanskar valley
- All the monasteries in Zanskar have different dates for when they host the monastery festival. The exact dates can be found out at The official website of Ladakh Autonomous Hill Development Council, Leh.
- Except Padum, all the other villages in the Zanskar valley are not equipped with tourist facilities. This is an excellent opportunity to experience the local life of Zanskar, live with a family and share stories.
- Alternatively, you can hire a local taxi to take you back to Padum after the monastery festival.
- There might be some jokes made at your expense. Even if you are an Indian, you will still be considered (rightly so!), an outsider to the Zanskar valley. Take it all in the right spirit.
- Go easy on the free-flowing chang! Remember: Zanskar valley is in the higher altitude Greater Himalayas. Alcohol is not your best friend at these altitudes.
Need help planning your trip to Ladakh and Zanskar?
Map for the journey from Kargil to the Zanskar valley
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34 thoughts on “Colourful monastery festivals in Ladakh and Zanskar”
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Hey Sandeep I read your few Blogs about Zanskar Valley , Kargil – Padum Travel and Phugtal Monastery! Can you help me out with a short Itinerary from Leh to Phugtal including all the places to visit in Zanskar ? I and my frend want to explore the valley ! Also Would you let me know whether there are buses available directly from Leh or Srinagar or from Kargil to reach Padum ? I heard that pre booking is required for travelling in those govt buses. And frequency from kargil is less. Also Are there any return buses available from Padum to Kargil ? Also. When do Kargil – Padum Highway open? I am planning to cover this in 1st Week or Mid June ! Is it feasible to cover during that time? My Approx budget from Leh/Srinagar to Phugtal is Rs.15000. Will it cover all expenses like food, cheap travel, accomodation?
A bus leaves weekly from Leh and goes via Kargil to Padum. It’s a 2-day journey with a night halt at Kargil. Considering such less frequency, the seats usually fill up. Finding a seat on the spot might not be possible. It’s not that difficult finding a shared taxi from Kargil to Padum. If not immediately, you will definitely find a ride in a day or two. June is a good season to visit and the Penzi la is already open. If you are backpacking and taking shred or public transport, you should be able to get by on this budget. Buses leave regularly from Srinagar to Kargil, getting a shared taxi from Srinagar for Kargil is also possible.
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Hi,
I’m a French girl looking for informations about Sani where I went last summer and find your blog. Your pics are so wonderfull. Congratulations!
I just feel like mine are messed up now 🙂
Hey Helene, how was your expereince in the tiny remote Sani? Did you fall in love with the Zanskar valley and the people there? 🙂
Hello,
I plan a trip in Zanskar in june 2017, and I would love to assist to a festival. Do you know if there is a festival in June 2017 ?
Thank you.
The monasteries in Ladakh and Zanskar have festivals every year. We have shared the link to the calendar of these festivals in this story.
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what great pics really. so colorful and vivid , full of life and energy. ladakh is what it is truely , a never ending encyclopedia.
Hi Sandeepa!! please check your ‘Other’ box on Facebook 🙂
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Such mesmerizing pictures, took our breath away! Looks like the spirit of festivity was all around…
This is a wonderful post, very informative with some amazing bright and colorful pictures. I admit that I had no clue hat even such a place existed, let alone having such a festival. This diversity within J&K was completely unexpected and a pleasant surprise!
Thanks ..
Yeah, every region of Jammu and Kashmir has something unique to offer. So many cultures live in just that one state.
very colorful indeed.
Yes, Jyotirmoy! This splash of colour is a striking contrast to the stark surroundings!
Colorful vibrant amazing pictures.. thoroughly enjoyed reading and viewing 🙂
Thank you Astha!
Great portraits of the people of that region.
Kalpanaa
From
Kalpanaawrites
Thanks Kalpana! Glad you mentioned the people of the regions. The monastery festival is as much about them as it is about the masked dances!
Nice. the hill people are a colourful lot 🙂
Hehe, they are also a simple, helpful lot!
Just an amazing post with most beautiful images and that great text. Thank you for sharing
Thank you so much, Cornelia! A monastery festival is a must have experience in Ladakh/Zanskar regions.
Awesome photographs. Great post.
Thank you so much, Rupam!
Vibrant images. Great detail. It’s such a co-incidence I spent all evening yesterday trying to draw out an itinerary for a Ladakh trip, and today you write so elaborately on the place! 🙂
Trip to Ladakh? Yum 🙂 Have a look at our Ladakh and Zanskar stories for more ideas.
So amazing, would love to be a part of it some day! Beautiful clicks dear, so colorful ?
Thank you , Archana! These monastery festivals are a great expereince! Must-do in Ladakh/Zanskar.
Whoa! Mesmerizing captures! That head gear stunned me beyond words!
Very well covered event.
Hey thanks, Indrani! It was the first time we saw these head gears and were stunned as well! Especially how well the monks handled them even while dancing around!